So, I have wheels that are the wrong offset. They're 18x12 with 6.75" backspacing, but I really need 8" backspacing. This means the wheels stick out slightly. With the Georgia SCCA Tour event this weekend, I needed a quick fix.

Option1:
Overfenders. They're big and bulky. Not sure if they're wide enough for what I want in the end. They cost a #@% to ship.

Option2:
Rivet on flares. They're less bulky, and they're cheaper to ship. They MIGHT be big enough for what I want.... but they're still like $200 shipped for crappy fiberglass ones that might not even fit right anyways.

Option3:
Custom make my own flares. Cost: Free. No shipping. Just tons of fun burning myself with weld splatter and cutting my fingers on sharp edges!!! Yay! I still have a couple fingers left to type with even!


So, option3 works, but there's 100 ways to skin a kat.... which made 245hp on a 10psi run. Ran out of fuel somehow, which is completely due to the MAF/ECU/SAFC setup :-/ fuel is fine up high, crap down low!. Also, the catalytic convertor and the new exhaust are overly restrictive. I'll be back at Bristol Dyno after working out a new fuel system (bikirom + MAP probably).

Back to the story: I'd been talking to Carl at Soundworksinc.net about doing some custom touring car style fenders, which I'll probably end up doing after Georgia since I messed up the driver's side tub. The easiest way we agreed on was to cut the wheel arch out, and bracket it in place where we want it to be, then shape mold foam blocks into the buldge of the widebody and layer fiberglass over it to connect the wheel well to the body. F(*&(%^ that, I don't have that time at the moment (although I will later). I'm going the simple route.

So, sawzall in hand, I went outside to f(*&# some s*(& up.

The first step is to plan something. I think I ignored this step on the driver's side, but that's half of why I'm writing this: so you guys don't mess up (because I care. I really do). I traced an outline of what I wanted (dirt and grime makes for an easy sketch) and went to work. For the fender cut, you want to take only the outer fender skin after your initial notch.

The next cut should be right along the lip of the fender on the inside (tub) section, so that you end up with as much of the tub as possible. I then cut slots into the tub section so I could hammer it up:

Ignore the bad cut. It'll be covered later. Just make sure that you've got room for your wheels.

Once that's accomplished, undo the shock mount and mount your wheel. Use a jack to bring the wheel up to where you think your suspension might go. After that, set the fender lip to where you want it (ideally clearing the tire) and tack it in place a few times.

Then stand back and take a few s@(%^y pictures yourself!

Another thing that was accomplished since my last post is the OBX HLSD. I've gotta say, this thing bites pretty well. I didn't get a chance to really notice Mark's S15 diff due to the rear wheel lift issues, but I feel as though the OBX has a bit better torque biasing (if that's a word). Occasionally with enough throttle my inside wheel will lock a bit and I'll get some tire chatter. Through some spirited street driving I was thoroughly impressed. Hopefully it can handle 3x the tires, though. On a side side note, the diff was shimmed up and assembled by Competition Gear in Maynared, MA, down the street from FunHondas. I haven't had any issues with it yet, and I've done around 200 miles on the diff so far. Having it professionally done might be the difference between the OBX horror stories and having a working diff.

Anyways, tonight I've gotta pack the car up, take care of some small stuff and head on down to Georgia on Thursday.

BTW, I know there's a ton of spelling errors. I have no fingers. Gimme' a break.

-PJ